The textile and trim sourcing season is upon us for Spring/Summer 2016, a season that is set to revisit past traditions with renewed vitality and also embrace the latest technical developments on the fibre and fabric front. What persists is the demand for lighter fabrics that continue to deliver the desired levels of performance, offering comfort and function, but most of all visual appeal as seen in Underlines exclusive textile directions.
Sustainability continues to be a mega trend, as reduced processes and innovative regenerated yarns continue to come through, combined with the reduction on the garment manufacturing front with clean cut fabrics and selvedge edge qualities, not just reducing the manufacturing process but delivering smooth finishes to the consumer.
Comfort touch is key, but there is also a growing demand to fabrics that enhance the wearer’s experience as cool touch mineral embedded yarns react to the body, perfect for enhancing shapewear and sports intimate apparel.
For detail, inspiration pulls from a variety of sources, with colour key, inspired by the 2016 Olympics delivered in energetic and vibrant tones through to the increase in high levels of performance fabrics. Traditional artisanal lace is reworked in micro fine whispery delivery through to more techno laser cut appeal. The overall mood to take on board when sourcing this season is the renewed energy being placed in the market, whether it is from the vibrancy of colours through to the intricacy of fabric design.
A vibrant and energetic mood embraces the season, as bright tones filter through. There is an element of fun, zaniness, creating something new in generating sales. Tones are bright and super bold complimented with classic white and black. Prints are set to feature, especially from the digital side in delivering optically illusive effects. There is a Pop Art feel to this trend, a little bit frivolous, but a little bit of fun never hurts!
Base fabrics from the knit sector feature in natural touch synthetics as well as true cotton, to high level lustre circular and warp knits that push the intensity of the tones.
Fibres, yarns & fabrics
• Bright nylon/spandex circular and warp knits
• Cotton touch synthetics
• Clean cut fabrics
• Prints – sublimation through to digital for super optical effects
• Geometric lace – rigid and stretch
• Bright coloured elastic narrows in playful jacquard designs
• Single cotton/spandex jersey
• Intense toned lace narrows
• Fancy spacer fabrics for cups
• Fantasy openwork jacquards
Target applications
• Teen lingerie
• Energised day lingerie
• Sleepwear
• Men’s bodywear
The surge in the ‘athleisure’ trend is pushing the demand for sporty functional and fashion led intimate apparel. Function is key, with cool touch and moisture management essential. High compression fabrics are incredibly soft, embracing the body and enhancing the performance of the wearer. Sporty functional mesh is essential to the range, in true or mock mesh structures as are geometric jacquard effects.
The performance aspect of this textile trend is important for true active intimates, but just getting the sporty look is easy, remove the functional
fabrics and offer sporty look fabrics, in delivering casual active-inspired fashion lingerie.
Fibres, yarns & fabrics
• High performance synthetics – moisture management
• Cool touch fabrics – innovative cross section synthetics combined with cooling mineral embedded yarns
• Brushed surfaces for liners applied next to the skin
• Super light mesh with high levels of function
• Prints update the active sector
• High compression shaping warp and circular knits for anatomical support and clean cut finish
• Surfaces are compact and shell-like, protective in their delivery
• Micro piqué structures in super lightweight hands
• Seamless intimate apparel with zoned functional yarns, openwork structures and compression
Target applications
• Active intimate apparel for men and women – with true function and performance
• Fashion active – sporty style without the high textile performance
• Shapewear – pulls the functional aspects of this trend for a cool, comfort effect
The distinctive touch of natural fibres continues with fine count cotton teamed with spandex for smoothly embracing knits features. Jazz up this traditional natural mood from inspiration from nature’s innovative and unique colours. Synthetics feature, but opt for cotton touch on the polyester front, also consider recycled synthetics for the sustainable aspect.
Fabric relief and structure also pull from the natural source, with floral relief through to organic structures being part of this trend. Irregular openwork mesh, honeycomb structures and soft stretch jacquard bring through natural inspired forms.
Fibres, yarns & fabrics
• Organic inspired structures – openwork jacquards, honeycomb structures, irregular mesh and drop stitch effects
• Unique natural colourways
• Natural touch synthetics – textured yarns deliver a grainy textural finish
• Brushed fabric surfaces for a super soft sueded finish
• Fabrics are light and compact with super natural touch
• Mouldable fabrics
• High compression cotton touch knits for shapewear
• Woven silk and silk-like synthetics
Target applications
• Essential day lingerie
• High level fashion lingerie
• Men’s bodywear
• Sleepwear
Ethereal and dreamy with a strong hint of decorative detail feature in Whisper, as featherweight knits and micro light laces get inspired from the hosiery sector. Super feminine with a modern techno twist, this weightless trend is offered in matte and high lustre finishes.
Tone-on-tone prints enhance bases, with the colour palette pulling from whimsical hues. Embroidery is delicate and refined positioned on stretch or rigid super soft tulle. The whole look is uplifted through the inclusion of bright, luminous yarns.
Fibres, yarns & fabrics
• Super featherweight circular knits
• Glossy warp knits
• Soft mesh tulle for embroidery bases
• Bright synthetic yarns for added lustre
• Decorative detail is reworked on warp knits through laser cutting
• High gleam single knits for moulded bra cups
• New generation spacer fabrics with dull/matte yarn contrast
• Raised relief in laces an d jacquards through iridescent yarn use for motifs and fillers
• Super light decorative stretch jacquard
Target applications
• Essential day intimate apparel with a stronger feminine twist for women in second skin luxury
• Lighter weight shapewear makes the most of the luminosity of this trend with a stronger feminine appeal
• Elaborate and decorative intimate apparel for fashionable lingerie
• Nightwear with a glamorous edge
