It seems there is not such a huge divide between ready-to-wear and Swimwear/Lingerie these days. Perhaps that is down to the fact that today our post-covid work/life balance looks more seamless, with more ready-to-wear collections borrowing looks or pieces from swimwear and lingerie. But the question is, does it work the other way around? Does RTW influence swimwear?
Certainly, at Gran Canaria Swimwear Week this season, more designers were adding ready-to-wear (RTW) capsules to their collections, and some pieces were definitely begging to be styled as daywear. Run by IFEMA and Gran Canaria Moda Calida, the event saw leading fashion designers, influencers and magazine editors join together to view the fabulous collections on show for SS22. And there were definitely some key trend moments.
I noticed a lean towards more skin bearing and sexiness, as seen in the nicknamed ‘naked dress’ by David Koma, Holstein and Ami in RTW. This translated into swimwear for SS22 through daring cuts embraced by designers such as Carlos San Juan, and Aurelia Gil, where the swimwear pieces barely covered the pubis bone. Designer Maldito Sweet took the cut even further by using mesh as a backing material, while model Agueda Lopez wore a very daring bikini in black by Oye Swimwear.
Cut outs are another trend we’ve seen in swimwear and lingerie forever. But somehow I felt that some of the designers were inspired by the cut outs seen in ready to wear collections by Jacquemus and Stella McCartney. For example, Shuarz presented a beautiful green one piece swimsuit with latticed cut out sleeves, and Alawa utilised cut outs on hats and pareos. Cut outs were also featured in collections by prize winner of sustainable designer of the year, Elena Morales.
Notable cut outs came from Guillermina Baeza’s ‘silver garden’ collection, in her eye popping metallic swimsuits with rope trim, meanwhile Miss Bikini Luxe had organic cuts held together by hoops. Designers Pedro Palmas – whose signature couture is renowned for their cut outs – incorporated them into both men’s swimwear and women’s swimsuits and bikinis.
I realised I was sniffing a trend when Matthew Wilson came out with scanty bloomers finishing in unyielding ruffles for Givenchy RTW SS22. And although not exactly bloomers in the strict sense, an interpretation featured in the collections of designers Laut with shorts featuring lace ruffles, and Alexandra Miro with a more delicate polka dot baby doll printed version.
Ruching is beloved of many swimwear brands working with fuller figure models and it’s certainly a trend that is ongoing in RTW, as seen at Self Portrait and Balmain. This season though the ruching seemed to aid the vertiginous cuts by pulling the sides up even higher. Alawa had high waisted ruched bikini bottoms, as did Elena Morales, Liberimo, Guillermina Baeza and Miss Bikini Luxe. More classic ruching was presented in MamaMaria’s vintage inspired pin up collection.
Other crossover trends spotted include a penchant for clashing prints/colours as seen by Dolores Cortes, Laut, Bloomers, Agatha Ruiz de la Prada. Another is the use of mesh in see-through skirts and slips, such as in Carmen Gonzales’ and trousers, at Como la Trucha al Trucho collection. 70’s punk beaded embellishments, sparkling embellishments, paillet and stud trims were all popular.
Predicted colours for RTW for summer were orange, boy blue, and dry leaf green they were certainly apparent in swimwear. Meanwhile natural materials such as rope, straw attachments and recycled materials were present.
Report by @mscastrorides and photos by @santiago_ladeiro_photos.
