Underlines chats with Asi Efros, the talented & independent creative thinker, writer and trend forecaster on her unique anti-trend forecasting project – The Fifth Element.
When was The Fifth Element launched?
The Fifth Element was launched on 15 August 2022 following the opening of the first post-pandemic in-person intimate apparel trade shows, Salon International de la Lingérie and Interfilière in Paris, and later the Curve Expo in New York. I have been planning to share my observations of the rapidly evolving fashion world for quite some time. My Paris trip solidified that decision as it exposed me to a tide of creativity and innovation that flooded my senses. At that point, I simply had to do it.
Who are the people who inspired the Fifth Element?
I was encouraged by the community of young independent lingerie designers, store owners, and industry experts, who shared their thoughts, concerns, and wishes with me. I felt it was the perfect time for a new radical way of narrating fashion.
Even though The Fifth Element is my first independent feature, it was influenced by many of my mentors; multi-talented creators, avid storytellers, and radical thinkers. I’m forever grateful to Sharon Graubard, a founder of MintModa Trend Forecasting for her radiant fashion intelligence; to the passionate feminist and industry icon, Jos Berry, for her insights; to Editor-in-Chief of the Lingerie Briefs magazine, Ellen Lewis, for granting me the freedom of expression, and to Pamela Scott for her support and openness to new ideas.
What prompted you to create The Fifth Element?
I had an innate calling to narrate fashion in a nontraditional way by subscribing to the eternal beauty of creation in contrast to perpetuating the disposable ultra-trendy traits.
Throughout my 30 years in the fashion industry as a creative director, designer, and merchandiser, I’ve subscribed to all leading trend-forecasting services. Many of them seem removed from reality, cold and devoid of emotion, while others unleash an avalanche of content on unsuspected guidance seekers. I found that having too much information is as difficult to steer as having too little. It takes a massive amount of time, which is our most precious resource, to distill the relevant bits and to piece them into a cohesive story. Moreover, very few trend services offer insights focused solely on intimate apparel, which is renowned for its refined aesthetics, exquisite color palette, and a certain joie de vivre responsible for its chemistry and passion.
I found that having too much information is as difficult to steer as having too little”
What are the key advantages of The Fifth Element?
The Fifth Element is an anti-trend forecast. It doesn’t follow a familiar structure or has the usual elements like seasonal colors and hottest styles—attributes that bolster the high cyclicity of fashion, which in turn greatly contributes to overproduction and overconsumption. The Fifth Element is designed to stimulate new neural connections, engage all senses, elicit an emotional response, provoke independent thought, and generate new ideas. It facilitates the transition from being a follower to becoming a creative leader.
It facilitates the transition from being a follower to becoming a creative leader.
The Fifth Element is an evergreen and seasonless wealth of wisdom that provides an analysis of the societal climate, celebrates beauty and creativity and narrates the evolution of fashion and colour psychology. That’s why I’ve chosen a conceptually different format for its structure. The foundation is a philosophy that came from ancient science. It viewed the universe as comprising the four basic elements: Earth, Water, Air, and Fire, with the Fifth Element being an ether, also known as the quintessence. This approach allowed me to focus on eternal values and, above all, highlight our unbreakable bond with nature and the acute necessity for mindful and purposeful design and eco-responsibility.
What exactly are the special features?
The idea of The Fifth Element came from a well-known 1997 film by Luc Besson, in which a role of a supreme being (or quintessence) was brilliantly portrayed by the actress Milla Jovovic. The profound spiritual nature of that film compelled me to orbit a woman as the fifth quintessential element. The most important section, La Femme, focuses on the divine feminine—a woman and her needs.
For the first time in the entire history of intimate apparel, the industry is run by women. In the last three years, I’ve observed a staggering amount of creativity and innovation conceived by women-owned intimate apparel brands that attend to all stages of a woman’s life. I see products that fiercely address the not-long-ago taboos and non-marketable issues like breast and menstrual pain, night leaks, post-surgery challenges, living with cancer, and intimacy after menopause.
Who is your prime audience?
The Fifth Element is for all creatives in the intimate apparel realm, which unites designers, retailers, manufacturers, consultants, technical specialists, lace crafters, printmakers, and textile experts in a variety of categories; lingerie, swimwear, sleepwear, activewear, legwear, loungewear, and shapewear. All members of the multifaceted intimate apparel industry will be able to tune in and find assets that speak to their ethos. The Fifth Element is a useful educational and inspirational tool on its own or in addition to any trend resource.
Even though The Fifth Element is an all-encompassing guide to intimate apparel, I believe that the group to benefit the most is comprised of independent designers, slow-fashion start-ups, and privately-owned retail stores. I identify with the members of that vibrant and challenge-loving community because they embody the best qualities that the industry has to offer; they assure the influx of progressive ideas and hold the community together by lovingly tendering to each of their customers.
The Fifth Element is designed as a series of independent guides that can be purchased separately. They are sensibly priced and dedicated to different topics so that each inquirer can choose the most relevant content.
How did the pandemic affect your business?
For me, the last two years were filled with discovery and creation. They also mark the beginning of my transformational journey that led me from a place of fear and lack to the realm of love, abundance, and gratitude.
What is your greatest challenge going forward?
I feel that the greatest challenge will be to reach as many hearts and minds of like-minded creatives as possible. I would also like to continue addressing the most pressing and still-controversial topics like diversity, inclusivity, eco-consciousness, and transparency.
What is next in terms of development for the Fifth Element?
I plan on completing 6 to 8 reports per year following two global fashion weeks in September and March as well as highlighting innovation, craftsmanship, and new sustainable technologies in between.
I’m also looking forward to meeting with many members of the intimate apparel community to learn their stories and understand their needs in order to bring forth highly engaging editorial content. Happy creating, everyone!
