Underlines talks with Nicola Hopkins, Founder of Bold Intimates, an expert product development studio and consultancy offering design, technical, sourcing and sampling services. But she is also at the heart of the Intimate Apparel Technical Collective, a new initiative that started at the beginning of 2022. Nicola is proving something of a visionary in her sector.
So what’s your background?
I am 37 and 1st class DMU Contour graduate (Class of 2007). I worked for around a decade in design and account management on the supply side, largely servicing UK and European retailers and brands such as La Senza, Ann Summers, Hunkemöller and Next.
Soul and heart then took me to spend time living in Sydney and San Francisco and I freelanced for several precious years which allowed me to develop personally and professionally outside of the constraints I had been used to in the UK.
I was able to hone my skills, strengths and offerings; realising my passion and truth for technical accuracy and integrity combined with a deep and sensitive connection to the range of the human experience.
Returning to London, I was then fuelled to start the company Bold Intimates in 2018 committed to working in the most knowingly authentic way possible and using my business as a force for personal, collective and planetary revolution and healing. There were (and are) many areas of the product development and supply sector which I didn’t feel aligned with and I set out to re-imagine what our systems could be for building intimate apparel and re-store some key values into our industry.
Your proudest moment to date?
The Bold Intimates tag line is ‘Precision Naturally’ and standing for this often feels like we are going against the tide of the industry (daily) and so I am proud of my courage to continue to stand for what feels true and loving in every piece of work I do or interaction I have, to the best of my knowledge and experience.
Your biggest mistake?
I don’t have any regrets as I believe everything happens at exactly the right moment just as it is meant to. I do however look back and feel sad at the amount of times I allowed my personal experience (emotional or physical) to be invalidated in a professional context. As I now believe as a creative person, it’s not possible for me to create truly meaningful and valued product (or anything for that matter) without first being deeply connected to my own experience.
Why the world of intimates?
The duality of technical precision and human connection on an intimate level. The yang servicing the yin! Each needing the other and flowing into each other continuously. That’s what ignites me inside and what makes our industry unique.
A Typical Week in your life
Wow! This question surprisingly is the hardest. I notice an internal tension between a schedule I set for myself and my natural flow. I think managing my week is one of my biggest challenges right now.
I practice cyclical living, which means being attuned to my menstrual cycle and being and working with that natural flow of energy. Allowing work when the energy is there and allowing rest, play etc. when that is needed. This is a constant practice because it is a complete contrast to my external world and cultural fashion systems… although change is in motion I feel.
I spend my working days between my home in Forest Hill, London and a fantastic and diverse studio space in Peckham for creative and industrial people (very motivating and inspiring!) where I meet with clients and carry out fit sessions.
Generally, I work Mon-Thurs and allow a softer day on Friday with no meetings to tie things up from the week and transition into precious weekend time which is honoured for rest, play and connection. Alongside this structure I try to allow the flow of what is happening in my body and with my cycle to guide how I approach things.
Those Special Moments in your career
- Being recognised by Jos Berry to be a panel speaker for Interfiliere talks online at the height of the pandemic, on the topic of getting curious and sharing our visions for the future of the Intimate Apparel industry from the perspective of a designer.
- Being asked to be a guest designer for Concepts Paris for the AW 22/23 trend book where I was able to present my vision for a post pandemic landscape and the important link between what we wear and how we feel. I showed how by focusing on the details of the product build, consciously considering and constructing value and integrity into each step, whether that be a fabric, elastic, pattern shape, stitch or millimetre, this all adds up to a meaningful whole experiences for the wearer.
- Working with DAME during the height of the pandemic to create a planet and people friendly period pad. It felt very special to be able to pivot and use my intimate apparel technical skills in this meaningful way at such a critical time for all businesses. Then going on to see the product feature in British Vogue and in ads on London buses.
- Receiving feedback from members of the IA Technical Collective that they are so grateful for the space I have created and the new culture of connection and collaboration that I am building.
If you were not working in intimates what do you think you would have done instead?
I think I would have found my way here… there is no plan B : )
What burning ambition would you like to achieve?
Professionally, my biggest and most burning fire of an ambition right now is the Intimate Apparel Technical Collective, which organically came into being at the start of 2022, after I acted upon my desire to have more community with the Intimate Apparel product development space. I want to connect and celebrate our skilled technical practitioners, as I believe in the power of this rippling out to influence positive and thriving change through the Intimate Apparel industry at large. My vision is for all Intimate Apparel technical designers, technicians, pattern cutters, graders and machinists to be part of this community, co-creating product development systems of the future.
This in turn, feeds into my work and community within the Ecosystem Incubator where we use living systems thinking to adopt new circular models throughout the fashion industry. The belief that we are all part of a whole and can thrive as part of a wider ecosystem.
On a personal level I would love to become a mother: it would complete a circle I think with my professional career which has been about birthing and nurturing. I want to be a strong, well-rounded and balance feminine lead for the collective.
What lessons has the pandemic taught you – has it been positive or negative long term?
The pandemic has been extremely positive for me. The depth of learning about myself, my basic needs, my wants, as well as witnessing collective human behaviours, needs and wants when our systems were completely stripped away I believe (perhaps controversially) is exactly what humanity needed at exactly the right time. A big re-set! I will strive to remember the values learned during that time and bring them with me to build a healthier future.
What is your greatest challenge?
Task management, keeping to a schedule without reaching overwhelm.
I find as I am so passionate about my work, connections and the evolution of the industry that I am naturally driven to explore lots of directions professionally. This uses a lot of energy and I have to practice discipline to come back to the foundational things I ‘need’ to do for my businesses each day.
The one product you cannot live without?
Soft lacy bralettes from Oysho with removable foam pads. I have about 8 in different colours and laces and I wear these most days! They suit my size, body shape and lifestyle. Comfortable and pretty and feminine with just enough support and modesty for my B cups!
Time out?
My most favourite things to do are to dance and to be in nature. I practice ‘Ecstatic Dance’ and ‘5 Rhythms’ which can be described as moving meditations. They are freestyle movement practices where the invitation is to connect inwards and move with whatever is there. Dancing in this way allows me to feel what I am feeling and to process it. I always feel amazing after this experience, full of energy, love, joy and a flow of ideas. Living in London on and off for nearly 14 years now, I need more nature in my life that is for sure!! My apartment and balcony is full of plants which I enjoy spending time taking care of and talking to. I feel a move to the countryside is imminent however….
Pet Hate?
Small talk. I can’t stand surface level conversations anymore or when I get a sense that someone is ‘people pleasing’ and not being authentic. That makes me feel unsafe. I tend to prefer to dive straight in deep and see if we can emotionally connect…. Certainly with building new products the value we create is so much richer when it comes from a team of authentically aligned collaborators.
