There is no doubt that since the advent of Covid-19 life has changed for all businesses, and the lingerie manufacturers and retailers whose raison d’être is to provide an intimate, highly personal and expertly fitted product (often in an intimate one-to-one environment), could be forgiven for thinking that they are amongst the hardest hit. So, what will the future hold? This is of course uncharted territory for all of us and the answer to that question does not come easily. One thing though is for sure – life for lingerie businesses will not be the same again.
As UK lingerie retailers approached the end of their first month of trade after the national lockdown, business consultant Helen Masters, of Pudding Lingerie Consultancy, took to the streets (and of course to Zoom) to find out how lingerie, swimwear, nightwear and hosiery brands and retailers are adapting in order to survive, and hopefully thrive, post Covid-19. Helen interviewed a range of British intimate apparel brands and retailers thereby discovering what the new normal might look like for the lingerie world, and over the course of the week Underlines will share the key survey* findings (click here to read part one of this four-part feature).
The retailers’ perspective
How are you coping and managing to adapt operations post Covid?
All businesses report a change to everyday operations, with the obvious changes to hygiene procedures being common to all, whether online or bricks and mortar. The key impacts are that two thirds of stores are now operating a by appointment only service and 8 out of 10 retailers (both bricks and mortar and web stores) reported needing to take longer to process sales and returns due to hygiene requirements. All participants report a clear trend of increasing sales via remote channels. The outlook despite this is positive, with most businesses reporting sales at a similar or higher level and most customer feedback being positive (see below).
La Belle Boudoir (Taunton)
Have you added a video/phone or online bra fitting service since Covid?
80% of all retailers interviewed now have a video/phone or online bra fitting service, with video the most popular tool. While some providers offered this before, over half of respondents have added these services since lockdown, and all report them to be working well. However, while even bricks and mortar stores are now seeing a greater proportion of bra fittings by remote channels than ever before, face to face bra fittings in store by appointment is still the preference of most customers so far, with on average 90% still opting for this in the first month of opening versus 10% shifting to remote channels.
What customer feedback have you had?
There were no reports of negative customer feedback and 70% of respondents had received positive customer feedback about the changes they have made to their service as a result of Covid – a possibly surprising but encouraging trend.
What has been the trend in sales?
100% of online businesses have reported a growth in sales. The picture for bricks and mortar businesses is more mixed – with half reporting sales at a similar level to before and the other half having seen a decline. Those bricks and mortar business which are also online have seen their sales shored up by their website presence. Half of businesses have seen a shift to unstructured styles, loungewear and s/m/l sized bras. The report from indie stores is in many cases more positive than from the bigger names – with many predicting a shift back towards buying local which will help indies take a greater market share.
How have your buying habits changed?
Two thirds of retailers report a more cautious approach to buying, reduced open to buys due to the need to shift current season stock and/or cashflow issues. Bricks and mortar only retailers have been hit hardest here while many online businesses report no real change to their buying approach.
What is your top tip for success as a lingerie retailer with a bra fitting service post Covid?
“Customer awareness: Getting the message out locally and on social media/website that you continue to offer a fitting and ordering service (within safeguarding rules). Promote the fact that fittings are private. Offering advice on social media and website to keep engagement and build trust.” Alma Brayley, Coco-Boo Lingerie
“Do not compromise on your service level and don’t lose your USP. I do firmly believe that this is the time for the independent retailers to shine, whilst the large retailers struggle through. We are lucky that we employ less people, stock levels are lower and keeping a good relationship with suppliers will be key. It’s time to consolidate, don’t be too adventurous, focus on key drivers in order to survive.” Carmela Ricciardi-Powers, La Belle Boudoir
Raine & Bea (Clitheroe)
“I would advise any lingerie retailer to invest in a website, alongside their shop, whether it be a brochure website or an e-commerce website. This is key to surviving post COVID-19 and allowing customers the ease of finding you online and going to a shop for their bra fitting needs. Customers are now even more drawn to looking and browsing online, including looking at guides and videos to aid them. It’s even more important post COVID-19 to have an online presence. Since our launch in 2015, we have always provided bra fitting videos and guides on our YouTube channel and website including a bra size calculator, bra size charts and style guides. Our online bra fitting guides have always been accessible to our customers, including customers who have been unable to visit lingerie shops through COVID-19.” Gemma Iles, Knicker Locker
“Hygiene and making the customer feel safe in the boutique.” Jenna Barnes, Raine and Bea
“Ladies like the uninterrupted personal appointment service. Maintaining a social media presence during Covid has led to new leads coming in once lockdown was lifted, so for me business as usual has continued in terms of presence and I believe this has been key to my diary currently being full.” Justine Oldfield, SoS Lingerie
“Go the extra mile: I offer a service where I’ve driven to people’s homes locally with Lingerie I have selected during a phone/ message consultation. All placed in a box and the client has been able to try on in the comfort of her own home whilst I wait in my car. I have had a sale every time and all items not sold are quarantined. The clients are so grateful for the service and safety in service. I have had fantastic feedback.” Natalie Moseley, Lucy May Lingerie
What is the key feedback you’d give to lingerie manufacturers post Covid?
“Consistency with bra sizing is key.” Jenna Barnes, Raine and Bea
“Help the independent retailers any way you can to survive post COVID-19 and come out the other end. Lingerie is still selling, but retailers still need ongoing customer support, good stock quantities and discounts. If we all work together and help each other, we can get through this.” Gemma Iles, Knicker Locker
“Don’t expect huge sales from your retailers, don’t expect too much in fashion lines for the next 1-2 seasons and in some cases aim to reduce minimum replenishment orders. It is important that we all support each other to ensure that in the future we can all continue through the supply chain.” Carmela Ricciardi-Powers, La Belle Boudoir
“Produce more lounge and comfortable collections that can work for people who choose to work from home and want to still look beautiful. Produce more ethically and sustainably as well as being more inclusive – support black-owned retailers too.” Annabelle Mu’azu, Beautifully Undressed
“We need full transparency on the availability of stock for independent shops so we can manage the expectations of our customers. We are happy with the support they have offered for arranging special payment terms and delaying of our orders to manage cash flow and stock levels.” Alma Brayley, Coco-Boo Lingerie
“My suppliers, bar one, have maintained excellent lead-times before, during and post Covid. Suppliers also worked well with me as a retailer in terms of promotions and social media tools.” Justine Oldfield, SoS Lingerie
Click here to read parts one, three and four of this four-part feature.
Coco Boo (Leigh-on-Sea)
*Survey carried out across UK online retailers, bricks and mortar retailers and manufacturers during July 2020 – specific results remain anonymous in line with requests for anonymity from some participants.
