THE GREEN ROOM – THE COST OF GOING GREEN PART II

In the second part of Going Green Underlines examines the particular challenges to intimate apparel in instituting sustainable practices in their production processes.

Sustainability and Intimate Apparel

Some of the options that are open to ready-to-wear and accessories in their sustainability journey – resale of preloved items (second hand or vintage), repair and rent – are not available or desirable for intimate apparel. Rather sustainability and environmental awareness originates in the materials used (recyclable, renewable yarns and fabrics or compostable), natural materials such as organic cotton, certain silks (e.g. Peace) and Tencel or in the case of swimwear, ECONYL®.  Simultaneously working closely with factories with proven ethical workforce standards, sourcing materials closer to point of manufacture and a complete revamping of all point-of-sale and packaging materials.

Swimwear and beachwear brands were early adopters of recycled and regenerative nylon and the relative ‘simplicity’ of structure when compared to fitted underwear and corsetry ensured that up and coming brands are only produced with sustainable yarns and hardware. Established brands too have moved with the times offering attractive and sustainable options for their consumer base.

Labels such as INCAPRI SWIM have followed other designer brands such as EVARAE with its ‘guilt-free’ holiday wardrobe of bikinis, swimsuits, activewear and resortwear.

 

Likewise seamless or more ‘basic’ underwear can make an easier transition to sustainable offerings. German company MEY have a high number of sustainable products in their collections including their popular Organic Cotton range. Matthias Mey, MD, has commented:

 

for us sustainability determines the way we look at the entire value chain … sustainability has never been a fad for us, it is deeply rooted in the history of our company.”

 

Other European companies who have invested heavily in the sustainable future are Calida, Schiesser and Hanro. CALIDA has sustainable practice written in its DNA working with natural plant fibres such as TENCEL™, Lyocell or cotton and use of ECONYL®, the soft and skin-flattering material entirely made of 100% recycled nylon. They are constantly developing innovative materials and finishes that meet the strict criteria of the Cradle to Cradle Certified® standard (such as ROICA™ stretch yarn). Not only that but their Nature Collections are fully compostable.

 

SCHIESSER’s collections for men, women and children all encompass the use of natural fibres such as organic cotton and modal, especially in their Mix & Relax Collections.

 

Swiss brand, HANRO, has for many years employed sustainable fabrics such as organic cotton and modal with more recent ranges made of 100% Tencel. Blends with silk/cashmere and silk/modal are standard in the brand offering alongside cotton options.

Italian brand, OSCALITO, has only ever worked with natural fibres and materials (wool, organic cotton, silk and linen) and thinks that domestic production and longevity as well as responsibly sourced fabrics are key. Dario Casalini, CEO, assesses his retail customers’ demands:

 Customers above all demand transparency and truthfulness, regarding the chain through which the garments they buy are produced. They want to know the origin of products and the technical characteristics that definite their quality, as well as the simple obligatory indication of the composition.”

Turning to fitted underwear, there are much more complex challenges to making garments truly sustainable when  you are looking at more than two dozen components for the finished garments – band, panel, straps, closure, hooks & eyes, ring, sliders, lace, embroidery, cups, underwire … the list is long. However this said, many brands are trying to use as many components that are as sustainable, responsible and durable as possible.

The recent past has seen the emergence of intimate apparel brands determined to put sustainability and good practice at the heart of their company. The fashionable underwear brand, Dora Larsen, uses largely recycled or natural/organic raw materials and commits 1% of their annual turnover to environmental charities.  Georgia Larsen, Founder, comments:

It’s difficult to make lingerie truly sustainable as so much of the garment relies on the use of synthetic materials, such as elastane in the elastics and nylon in the laces. This is why we hesitate to call ourselves truly ‘sustainable’, as we feel this is misleading, and prefer to use the word “responsible” instead. To us, responsible means putting responsible production and material sourcing practices at the forefront of your decisions, as opposed to being an afterthought, with the knowledge that you should aim to improve on these season on season, as more responsible options become available in the market. For example, over the past couple of years, it has become more and more accessible to use recycled materials and so this is something we have embraced. For the future we’re looking into including more organic and natural fabrics, and most importantly of all, we focus on ensuring our fits and quality are of a very high standard so that the customer makes the most use of our lingerie. It is more costly to be responsible, yes, but this is ultimately a decision you need to make as a founder about what you consider to be important. And to keep in mind that ultimately, your customers’ priorities are also shifting towards responsibility over cheap and disposable goods, too.”

 

Created in 2017 British brand, STRIPE & STARE not only have a super sustainable collection of its much-loved lace knickers, sleep and loungewear but also plant a tree for every order! The B-Edit is 100% degradable from the silky soft Tencel fibre to the packaging and garments labels which are compostable.

Up and coming brand, NUDEA, which launched just a few months before the pandemic hit globally, and is B Corp certified, take their responsibility to the environment and people very seriously. The brand launched its first ever full Tencel seamless collection of underwear in mid-2022 and followed that up with their first ever nightwear collection in 100% natural fabrics and finishes. Priya Downes, Founder, says:

From the outset, Nudea has been committed to its ‘CareMore’ ethos of ‘buy less and care more’ by not compromising on quality and having sustainable and ethical business practices at heart. We became a B Corp certified company in 2022 and we see a lot of customers who’re really interested in where their underwear came from and what it’s made out of. Unlike other categories, underwear cannot be donated, rented or re-sold and with the average British woman owning 16 bras yet only regularly wearing four, it’s little wonder that a whopping 19 million bras end up going into UK landfill every year.  

 

Leading the charge, we have a sustainable-first ethos, with thoughtfully-made products designed to last longer, responsibly manufactured out of premium fabrics crafted from recycled yarns. Our commitment to sustainability includes easy-to-use fitting tools to deliver on fit for conscious, responsible shopping, signature recycled fabric and yarns, a bra recycling programme ‘Bra-Cycle’ launched in 2022, a thoughtfully-designed selection of styles made in partnership with responsible suppliers paying fair living wages, produced in GOTS and SLCP fully-certified factories and all delivered in recycled and recyclable packaging with a sustainable delivery option in major cities. 

 

 Our product is designed with longevity in mind and is made using recycled and sustainable fabrics along with smart features such as four hook and eyes, rather than the standard three, and multi-way straps that allow for more wear over time, and all are delivered with a laundry pouch to care for bras in the wash.”

 

A special mention for Wolford, as the first and only company in apparel textiles to hold two certificates affirming that they are Cradle to Cradle Certified™ at gold level. Its Aurora collection is made of biodegradable fabrics and of course the brand is famed for the longevity and durability of its products.