In this new feature Underlines will look at a series of issues which provide challenges to underwear fitters in independent stores and department stores. First up, the impact that weight loss drugs such as Mounjaro, Ozempic and Wegovy (jab) are having on the adult population in the UK.
The figure of adults on some sort of weight reduction medication is between 1.6 million and 2 million in the year to March 2025 and has rapidly increased since. This usage far exceeds NHS England’s initial goal of prescribing these drugs to 220,000 people over a period of 3 years. However in 2025, Sarah Jackson from the UCL Institute of Epidemiology and Heath Care commented:
our findings show that an estimated 4.5 million adults in Great Britain – nearly 1 in 10 – have recently used a drug to support weight loss or were interested in using one in the near future.” *
The use of drugs is twice as common amongst women as men (and most common amongst adults in middle age 45-55). The success rate of these drugs in the short to medium term is not in dispute at this time but the cost puts it outside of many people’s pockets (£200 per month for Mounjaro which became available privately in February 2024) and drugs sold ‘off-label’ rapidly on the increase. And while the level of obesity in the UK is conservatively estimated at 27% of the population (and 65% classified as overweight or obese) it has long been apparent that dietary plans and NHS advice were not even making a dent into this explosion in the weight of UK adults (and children).
Regardless of the pros and cons in the long term (where people may regain the weight they lost) it is a phenomenon that is here to stay and Underlines’ research with retailers up and down the country highlights virtually no regional difference in the uptake of the medication. These retailers are front facing with consumers and certainly see and fit women at all stages of their weight loss journeys.
Universally all the retailers interviewed are now dealing with customers who are on weight loss medication – no matter where the retail outlet is situated. Whilst many consumers are happy to reveal that their weight loss is down to injections/medication, there is still a sizable proportion that are reluctant to talk about it (or feel ‘ashamed’). One retailer commented: “We often have women who are apologetic or feel that they are cheating but I reckon it is my job to reassure them they are doing themselves a favour for their long term health. We cannot judge method of the weight loss – our job as always is to make women feel attractive and comfortable in their underwear purchases and to guide them through a transitional period. I have seen first-hand the transformation that has overtaken these women – a few who have been grossly overweight virtually their entire lives. It has had a positive effect on my business as customers are coming in more frequently for fittings and adjustments to their buying habits and indeed new customers coming in for a fitting for the first time.”
A London independent retailer echoes this sentiment: “This trend has been great for my business – ladies needing a whole new lingerie wardrobe, swimwear and nightwear. I am not sure how sustainable it is in the long term but if it is a fad then it is going to be around a while. I actually feel ambivalent myself as my increased sales are stemming from this ugly culture of skinny is better – something I strongly disagree with – and how there is massive pressure on women nowadays to stay looking youthful and trim. I find that my customers are not coming in until they have lost a lot of weight and they are ready to start over. Because they are happier in their new bodies they want to spend more and buy more pieces that make them feel great.”
“Because they are happier in their new bodies they want to spend more and buy more pieces that make them feel great”
The transitional period between commencing the weight loss medication and reaching the ‘goal’ weight is where retailers report that budgets are tightest. In their transformational journeys, customers will make purchases (but up to a ceiling of around £50 per bra) as they will want to buy more often as their shape changes rapidly. These ‘replacement’ visits quite often result in less spend but the frequency of the consumer coming into shop has risen dramatically. As one retailer puts it “they shop little but often.”
Interesting too that one of our interviewees is on weight loss medication herself and brings her experience to the changing room. “I am going through the same journey as many of my customers. And I am in a position to dispel some of the myths – you still need to follow a calorie controlled diet and eat enough to avoid extreme rapid loss that will cause gallbladder and hair loss issues. You also need to change your lifestyle before you come off it so you don’t end up gaining lots of weight straightaway – it is not a magic fat melter, it just makes dieting easier like the nicotine patch makes cutting down smoking easier. I can see in the fitting room the women who are not eating healthily and I worry that they will have a lot of weight regain.”
Continuing on the theme: “women’s confidence is up and down. Some are excited to be slimmer and able to buy underwear and clothes more easily – others are a little upset with loose skin and of course it is our job to ensure we find the best underwear product we can that fits and boosts their confidence.”
So how has this phenomenon affected how retailers order in stock, both continuity and forward order?
It is largely the speed of weight loss under these medications that has some retailers scratching their heads when it comes to forward ordering (e.g. for pre-Christmas).
A retailer in North West England comments: “The positives for business are that we have more frequent visits by our customers. The downside to that is forward buying is impossible! I have been left with sizes that I no longer need and also you have to start from scratch each time and the sale is not as straightforward. I am still stocking the same brands but altering my size ratios to meet this change in the market. Now just starting into the swimwear season I am concerned as I bought that all 6 months ago!”
“The positives for business are that we have more frequent visits by our customers. The downside to that is forward buying is impossible!”
This sentiment is echoed by other retailers: “We are concerned our forward orders are not going to be what we need …. I have not changed the orders as I am finding it difficult to predict size requirements. Certainly the loss of fullness and volume on the breast has stimulated me to look at different styles to accommodate this. Although I would prefer to stick with the same brands that I have always sold well, I need to consider other options too.”
A Northern England retailer comments: “We invest heavily in the emotional connection with our customers and this is another step in that journey – whilst the results are obvious so too are the side effects and no-one wants a droop! I have reduced forward ordering significantly over the last few years as I cannot commit heavily when we do not know what is around the corner.”
In common with nearly every retailer interviewed a Scottish retailers echoes the sentiments: “Customers losing weight do hold off in the short term but once they are at their goal, they find a new ‘them’, a new excitement and pleasure in shopping. The ability to choose from an abundance of styles and brands, sexier rather than being stuck with the couple of larger bras that ‘will do’. Buying more coordinated sets too – because they can!”.
The retailers have shared these antedoctal findings but clear trends are now emerging:
- Smaller backs are required (30 and below);
- Extra stretch and elastic soft lace can accommodate fluctuations;
- Consumers buying less but much more frequently;
- In the transitional phrase the £50 ceiling is real;
- Replacement visits more regular;
- Loss of fullness/volume in the breasts often means a change in bra styles offered;
- Loose/excess skin is an important issue;
- Decline in much larger sizes (less 44-52 back and more smaller cup sizes) – not just in lingerie but also swim and resortwear;
- The first shoots of growth in shapewear for its smoothing effects and enhanced appearance on loose skin.
*Research published in BMC Medicine and funded by Cancer Research UK
