Underlines finds out more about the young British brand, Ossa Stark, and its creator, Grace Kennedy and the obstacles she faced trying to launch a brand, conceived, designed and manufactured in the UK.
When did you begin working on the brand?
I began working on Ossa Stark in April 2019 and since then it has grown completely organically. The branding is hugely different from where I started and I still feel to this day I am continually fine tuning the brand. I launched in June 2022 after a long time saving like crazy. It has been a hard graft but 100% worth it.
Do you have a formal lingerie training background?
No. At the time of development, my current working background was nannying. I had left college in June 2018 and had absolutely no clue what I wanted to do. I studied film, photography and textiles at college and enjoyed it thoroughly but had no intention of starting my own underwear line. It bizarrely came about naturally, along with a few lightbulb moments. Launching myself into the lingerie/underwear world was putting myself in the deep end, as I knew absolutely nothing. All I knew was that I had a dream and I wanted to pursue it. However though, I have always been a huge underwear collector and lover and I’ve always said, if you have a good pair of underwear on you will always have a good day!
I continue to work a day job in retail and run Ossa Stark alongside. Since 2019 I have made amazing contacts and learnt so much about the industry and continue to do so.
Photography: Jade Emily Models: Charlotte King & Max Dibble
Can you tell me more about your design and production?
My designs started from a sketchbook which I filled for many months before meeting with Intimate Apparel Samples. It consisted of bad drawings, lots of collages, and other brands I look up to. Intimate Apparel Samples then developed my designs professionally and created my tech pack. I am no artist, so when I say these designs were basic, they were very basic. Intimate Apparel Samples brought my designs to life. Maxine and her team were the first professional people I met that wholeheartedly believed in me and my vision.
The designs (along with the branding) are inspired by country life. Growing up in rural Hampshire has been a huge influence on me and subsequently been brought out in my designs. We are so lucky to live in a country that has such beautiful landscapes and wildlife, and having a business that is connected to that fills me with joy. With each design inspired by a different element of the countryside, the design opportunities are endless.
After I finished the design and development stage with Intimate Apparel Samples, I then went on to source all my fabrics and trims and a bigger manufacturer. My big production run to get my brand launched was in the UK and 90% of my fabric and trims are also from the UK. UK manufacturing is definitely something that I am really passionate about and I believe in supporting other British businesses as well. I have recently gone back to smaller production runs with Intimate Apparel Samples as that is working better for myself and the business at the moment but through Make It British I have discovered there are in fact many UK manufacturers, which I think is great.
Photography: Jade Emily Model: Molly Costello Hair&Makeup: Niomi Stromberg Stylist: Alice Hare
If you were not working in underwear, then what do you think you would’ve done instead?
I honestly can’t even begin to imagine my life without my business, however I did look at becoming a Norlands Nanny at one point, so I would say I would’ve probably developed my qualifications and Nannying further.
Describe your products
My collection consists of two colour ways in a boxer, a bralette and a thong. The garments are in soft four-way stretch fabrics for every day style and comfort and each colour way is inspired by an element of the English countryside. My products are targeted at people who love country pursuits or just the great British countryside in general. Although anybody really can wear them! The signature brown check fabric is my own pattern that I had specially made. It is inspired by tweed fabrics, although it is a check pattern. Same goes for my blue check fabric, that too is my own design that I had specially made. The navy lace, was actually originally inspired by the inside of Le Chameau’s classic green wellie boot, that has a beautiful turquoise blue colour on the inside. I couldn’t find a lace in this colour so opted for the gorgeous navy lace from Litmans Lace. The collection in itself is designed to be paired with one another and each piece is made with the signature branded woven jacquard. Furthermore, I have a limited edition set laughing in June that is inspired by a completely different element of the English countryside. I can’t wait for the launch!
What ambitions do you have for the brand?
My ambition is to be recognised as the UK country inspired underwear line and the go to for country people. Second to that, I want to continue to be known for championing British manufacturing and design. Along side that, I have hope and ambition to become a global brand.
Do you work wholesale or just D to C?
Direct to consumer, but I would love to be able to sell my products to shops or boutiques. It is definitely in my plans, but it all takes time. I also have semi converted an old rice horse trailer to be my mobile shop. I had planned to take this to shows and fairs, however being able to have the right amount of stock, or having the funds to do a production run for a show is proving hard.
Any idea where you will be in 10 years time? Any plans for further extension and other clothing or accessories?
Oh this is a hard one, but definitely still doing Ossa Stark and hopefully have left my day job!
I would really like to develop my product range further, for example different style knickers and boxers and especially different style bras, as we are all such different shapes and sizes and I think it’s really important to include everybody and every body. Being a small brand is great but also frustrating. You are constantly filled with ideas to develop or people asking if you can do a particular style bra etc but not having the funds. I tell myself all the time that good things take time and it will all happen if I put in the work and keep up the determination. Furthermore, I would also like to dive into pyjamas, loungewear, socks and maybe even dressing gowns. I feel this ties in really well with the every day underwear.
I have high hopes to have a couple of boutique shops across the country and also be selling my pieces wholesale to other retailers.
You can contact Grace on grace@ossastark.co.uk
