Madrid After Paris: Reading Lingerie in Fashion

 

Lingerie never really left the runway, but this season at Paris Fashion Week it felt impossible to ignore. With Gen Z and Alpha dominating the front rows — pop stars, musicians and a generation far less interested in rigid dress codes — the boundary between underwear and outerwear suddenly feels irrelevant.

Across the runways, designers from Paris to Madrid revisited the language of underwear — bloomers, camisoles, slips, corsetry, sheer layers — each interpreted differently.

On the Runway: Reading the Body Differently

Isabel Sanchis

At Madrid Fashion Week, Isabel Sanchis engineers the body through cut and structure. The references are not explicit, but moments — a bandeau, a sheer layer — suggest an underlying language of underwear reinterpreted through construction.

Isabel Sanchis

Teresa Helbig

Teresa Helbig makes the reading more direct. Bloomers, bows, and bed-jacket silhouettes bring lingerie forward, but always with precision.

Acromatyx

Acromatyx collapses the boundary entirely. Corsetry, suspenders, fetish references — garments that reveal how easily fashion slips into the territory of underwear when gender and structure are challenged.

Simorra

At Simorra, lingerie dissolves into fabric. Lace, transparency, and layering trace the body rather than reveal it.

Coosy x Miguel Palacio

A counterpoint. Volume replaces exposure — balloon silhouettes and harem shapes soften the body, making what sits beneath more present through its absence.

Yolancris

Couture returns to control. Corsetry, lace, and softened crinolines shape the body through discipline rather than spectacle.

Odette Álvarez

A New York-inflected attitude — tailoring, satin, fluid silhouettes — where sensuality comes through presence rather than exposure.

Maison Mesa 

Maison Mesa expands the conversation. All bodies, all identities — lingerie appears, but the message is freedom.

A Parallel Reading: The EGO Platform

Pringastudio

Garments reduced to structure — wires, frameworks, exposed systems.

Bonet

Lingerie becomes the garment itself. Mesh, rubber, transparency — nothing hidden.

Maikarfi / Maison Gracen / Mericusan

Distortion, texture, fantasy — lingerie exaggerated, softened, or transformed.

Eaftimos / Adria Egea / Patequilux

Narrative, history, control — lingerie shifting into concept.

 

Beyond the Runway 

Jane Bardot 

Vintage bras transformed into garments and objects — intimacy turned material.

A Different Kind of Reading

Madrid doesn’t announce lingerie.

It lets you find it.

And once you start looking,

it’s everywhere.

Lupe Castro

Fashion curator & stylist

Host of The Space of Lupe Castro