Owner and CEO Lucy Litwack is one of the most experienced executives in the global lingerie industry and a pioneer in the emerging pleasure space. Lucy has been CEO of Coco de Mer for the last 12 years, leading an MBO of the business in 2017.
Under her leadership, Coco de Mer has grown from a niche business to a global luxury brand with new product launches and collaborations driving creative evolution and industry innovation. Underlines caught up with her between the run of trade shows the brand is doing this season!
Life before Coco de Mer
I have over 25 years of experience in the lingerie world, managing the brand strategy, creative design, merchandising and development of a multitude of luxury and commercial brands. Prior to joining Coco de Mer in 2014, I held director positions at brands including La Perla, Bendon and Victoria’s Secret, in addition to developing and launching David Beckham’s Bodywear line.
Retail is in my blood – my parents were jewellers, and I grew up learning the art of shopkeeping. Owning Coco de Mer has felt like getting the keys to my forever home.
I believe in the empowerment of women, and the healthy self-confidence that comes with pleasure seeking and a more progressive viewpoint. Lingerie is about redefining sexuality on our own terms as women, and it really can be life-changing. Coco de Mer is such a perfect home for that belief, and has been such a pioneering space for female pleasure.
Why intimate apparel?
I always found it odd that lingerie was considered something that you wore for someone else – when in fact it is the only item of clothing that we can wear which no one else sees, unless we choose to show it to them. I love that it is actually our secret power – something for ourselves, above and beyond anything or anyone else.
There is a craftsmanship to lingerie, with so many different characteristics, feminine yet bold, structured yet delicate – a bit like women with our myriad of different mindsets and personalities. This world is full of such talented people – the lacemakers, the toymakers – it’s such a progressive and joyful world to be in.
To me, the lingerie world is an ever-evolving – and extraordinary – world of female sensuality, creativity and sexual self-expression. Who doesn’t want to be in that universe? The lingerie industry has evolved from a functional service to a fun, fashionable expression for women. I have a seemingly insatiable desire to create a safe space for women to explore, to satisfy their curiosity, to push boundaries and above all, to experience pleasure and joy. Owning and growing Coco de Mer allows me to influence and support dreams, sensuality, and satisfaction, all with beautiful creations in the mix.
What’s your brand’s DNA?
The brand was launched in November 2001, with the beloved flagship boutique on Monmouth Street in Covent Garden. I joined as Managing Director in 2014, completing an MBO in 2017, and have been the owner and CEO ever since.
With 26 years of working in lingerie, I can safely say there is something very special about Coco de Mer. The purpose was clear from the start and has been there ever since; to cultivate a space and brand focused on lifting up women, shining a light on female pleasure and celebrating the joys of life.
From art to culture, education to pornography, we believe the female perspective on pleasure in all its forms is little discussed or truly understood. And yet, from general happiness and confidence, to deepening and nurturing our relationships – and a fundamental appreciation of ourselves – knowing and owning female pleasure and sensuality can be life-changing.
We are a proudly inclusive brand, welcoming women and men who care about female pleasure and its mutual appreciation, whilst doing our part to equalise the role of women in business, and resetting the importance of the female perspective.
We believe that pleasure done well fires all the senses; that sight, sound, taste, touch and smell are a system greater than the sum of their parts. From statement lingerie to exquisitely designed toys, we are creating products that are designed to fully explore the fun, joy and endless possibilities of women and their sexuality.
Our focus is always on the female gaze – we only work with female photographers and all female crews on our shoots to ensure that we create a safe space for our models and talent. There is something very moving about the female gaze – it is intimate, quietly powerful and sensual – and totally relatable. We think this is inspiring to women everywhere. It’s also why we are an all female team in head office – female owned and female led – our products are made for women, by women.
all female team in head office – female owned and female led – our products are made for women, by women
Coco de Mer has always been proudly British, and that heritage continues to inform our aesthetic and values. At the same time, our mission – to champion female pleasure and empowerment – demands global reach and cultural relevance. Luxury today is no longer about ownership alone; it is about emotional connection, meaning, and belonging. Consumers are not cutting back so much as choosing more carefully, seeking authenticity, sustainability, and experiences that create lasting memories.
I am so passionate about Coco de Mer. The brand has always punched above its weight, but I still believe it is yet to realise its full potential. It has been considered a niche brand in the past, but it has the potential to be so much more – a true, global luxury brand, focused on female pleasure.
What is different about working in this sector?
I’m sure there are many similarities between the different sectors, the pace, the creativity, the love of it – but there feels like such an intimacy about the lingerie world – a delicacy, yet a strong core and a dogged belief in the impact for the wearer – much like the creations I suppose. It’s something similar to the sartorial craftsmanship of Savile Row – there’s such expertise that goes into these pieces, and those who have experienced the impact really are such loyal believers in the power of luxury lingerie, and indeed luxurious bondage – the care that goes into creating these pieces, the quality of the materials, the meticulous design – you can just feel the difference it makes.
Lingerie trends evolve slowly and rhythmically – waistlines rise and fall like tides. Right now, we’re seeing a return to vintage silhouettes, softened by a smoother, more fluid sensuality. The growing embrace of different body shapes has had a profound and welcome impact. Desire is not singular, and neither are women. One size never fits all in something so intimate, and that freedom has added a rich new dimension to creativity within our Home of Pleasure.
Timelessness sits at the heart of our design philosophy. I always ask: will this still feel beautiful decades from now? That question is why we work with Leavers lace and traditional French embroidery houses, alongside designing our own. Generations of craftsmanship are woven into every piece, and you can feel that consideration when you wear it.
Then there’s the world of sexual wellness, and our part in that, through our toys and Intimate Play. It’s at the core of our being, and we want to use our voice to amplify the benefits of these curiosities, to celebrate the joys of pleasure, and the life-changing benefits of embracing and empowering female pleasure. The idea of a woman’s right to pleasure is moving into the cultural mainstream, but it does still feel like such an antiquated taboo that needs to be a thing of the past – especially when you look at the business case for both. It’s time for women to stand in their true light and be celebrated for the myriad that is the female experience, which we all know we benefit from in a multitude of ways.
A Typical Week?
Busy! The days begin with an early walk with my dog, Charlie, and working through the morning emails. I have a few days in the office, and others when I’m online and in meetings with clients, collaborators, agencies – and then there will usually be a few events and panels. I also try to work on the shop floor as often as I can. It’s so important to be able to speak to our customers directly and spend time with our retail team who are fountains of knowledge about the hearts and minds of our customers.
A few times each month I will have meetings to catch up with the FGM organisations I work with, which always helps to inspire me.
I have a trainer and try to workout as often as I can, it really helps me to reset, and as something of an insomniac with an overactive mind, lifting weights helps to wear me out!
Whom do you admire in the intimate apparel industry?
I have had the great fortune, over the course of my career, to work for, and with, some of the most incredible people in this industry. And I have been, and still am surrounded by so many people from whom I learn so much. The pleasure of working with Gillian Proctor at DMU, being inspired by women like Bok Goodall and her Ms A London brand, all the innovators who have launched game changing products like period pants and menopause underwear, talented designers who go it alone and set up their own brands (not an easy path), Les Wexner from whom I learnt so much about retail when I was at Victoria’s Secret, the list really does go on!
If you were not working in this industry, what would you be doing instead?
I started my career agency side – so maybe if one of my clients hadn’t been a lingerie company which steered me in this direction and began my love affair with this industry, I would still be working in branding and design.
Or maybe running a rescue shelter for dogs – something I still hope to do in retirement.
Athena
Your greatest challenge?
The MBO was a huge challenge – taking on this incredible brand as a sole female owner – so to be at this point, 12 years later, is incredibly special. However, as a privately owned, independent business, cashflow and funds are a constant challenge, so we need to keep innovating, and keep speaking to our values in order to stay relevant, and to ultimately sustain the future and legacy of the brand.
There is a consumer craving for more curation, uniqueness and personality – a strong experience makes a brand feel ‘worth it’. I really believe that product is the souvenir of the experience in luxury, and as a brand we need to cater for that. Over the past 25 years, the luxury retail landscape has evolved almost beyond recognition. When Coco de Mer was founded in 2001, luxury was defined by gatekeeping, wholesale dominance and physical retail as the primary point of discovery. The online world existed, but it lacked the cultural force, immediacy and intimacy it commands today.
As inflation continues to shape spending habits and commerce moves ever further online, the future of traditional bricks-and-mortar retail is often questioned. Yet I remain convinced that physical space, when done properly, will become even more meaningful. Luxury has always thrived in moments of uncertainty by offering something grounding: beauty, craft, and human connection.
There is no doubt that AI, technology and virtual reality will fundamentally influence the future of our industry. Erotic innovation is already accelerating – from beautifully designed smart pleasure objects that bring couples closer, to increasingly sophisticated digital platforms that expand how intimacy and companionship are explored. Technology and eroticism will continue to intertwine, and the possibilities are genuinely exciting.
However, in the luxury space, we must tread carefully. For now, consumers still crave curation, tactility and craftsmanship. They want to feel seen, heard and understood – not processed by an algorithm. For a brand like Coco de Mer, which is frequently restricted or shadow-banned online, the tangible, organic experience remains essential. Heightened customer experience is not a trend; it is a necessity. History shows us that even in the most challenging times, people invest in spaces that offer care, dignity, and escapism.
Heritage, quality and emotional value can help consumers view your product as a trustworthy, staple purchase – but so can genuine storytelling. We wave the flag for sensory play, so it’s important that we consider the sensory impact in our store: Using all the senses. One example is our lighting – so key in a fitting room – nobody wants to try on lingerie in strip lighting!
On a more societal level, the biggest challenge for me remains the empowerment of female pleasure, and the abolition of FGM – a barbaric tradition that really needs to end. It’s a matter incredibly close to my heart, and I won’t stop until it’s in the past, where it belongs.
Dame Denise Lewis models Seraphine teddy
Dame Denise Lewis models Aphrodite high neck bra, suspender and skirted thong
Proudest moment to date?
Each collaboration and partnership feels so important, and shifts the dial on female pleasure a little bit, so there really is so much to be proud of with Coco de Mer. The women we work with are such pioneers, and working with them is so reaffirming and exciting. A lot of what we do is the norm for us, but there are moments when you see first hand what a difference is being made, and that really is so special.
Recently, on our Icons shoot with Dame Denise Lewis, we were doing an outfit change and the shot was of Denise in our classic Aphrodite three piece lingerie set. It turned out it was the first time Denise had worn a Suspender Belt, and you could see the confidence it gave her – the rest of the shoot had a palpable shift, the energy was electrifying, and she has mentioned it a few times since – seeing that moment and being able to bring it to life for such an inspiring woman was a real privilege.
Alongside the collaborations, becoming a Chair of Trustees for The Five Foundation was such a monumentally proud moment for me, and never ceases to drive me forward with this mission.
Worst move so far?
The year that we didn’t have a retail store, after we had closed our Covent Garden boutique and were waiting to find the right location for our new boutique (which we eventually found in Motcomb Street). We got constant calls from customers who missed the opportunity to have direct communication with our team.
Any other ambitions for Coco de Mer going ahead?
Luxury is taking on a new definition today. It is no longer just about owning a designer product. Instead it is about individual, exceptional experiences and an emotional connection. The experience needs to be authentic, unique and immersive in order to justify the costs, and enhance the appeal of the product. Coco de Mer doesn’t just sell products. We are what I call ‘The Home of Pleasure’ – curating experiences and education for men and women to discover and explore their desires, and embrace the complexities of sexual pleasure, in a space that is welcoming, empowering and wonderfully indulgent.
We have such a strong history of creative and commercial collaborations with incredible brands and institutions – The V&A Museum, Sotheby’s Auction House, Playboy, Killing Eve, Net-a-Porter and The X Film with Rankin to name a few – I can’t wait to launch more collaborations that shift the dial, more beautiful creations, and more connections with our beloved customers, across the world on an intimate level that goes above and beyond the current experience between a brand and their consumers.
This year we’re also going through the Butterfly Mark assessment again. Powered by Positive Luxury, The Butterfly Mark is a standard of excellence in the world of luxury, and testament to our commitment to improve. Brands awarded the Butterfly Mark are re-assessed every two years, so we’re going back into the assessment, checking ourselves against the most current frameworks and standards. The Butterfly Mark means so much to us – it’s proof that what we do matters, and a valuable measuring tool for our impact in the strive for empowerment and equality, so we will be sharing updates on this in due course.
As sexual wellness moves into the mainstream, we want to be able to bring this category to more women by working with new wholesale partners across the globe. From being the exclusive launch partner for John Lewis’s entry into this market to an already established business with UK sites such as Cult Beauty and Sephora, our world of pleasure is also available at international accounts including Goop, Pleasurements, Mecca and a plethora of independent lingerie boutiques.
As we present these products at the shows this season, we hope to empower more women to prioritise pleasure and focus on self-care which in turn leads to increased confidence, joy and improved health.
Where do you think you will be in 10 years’ time (or where would you like to be!!)
Working on our 35th anniversary plans?! Possibly from Palm Springs – for the architecture, the weather, the mountains, the calm…
Plans for the 25th anniversary?
We’re being very on brand and building anticipation…Our 25 year celebrations will be revealed one at a time throughout the year. They began with the launch of our new SS26 collection ‘Reverie’, which I completely adore – Reina is a personal favourite of mine, but so many of the pieces are so special, I can’t wait to see the reaction to the complete collection.
We have several events and collaborations coming up that I can’t wait to divulge…
We are also going on the road, having just participated at Salon International de la Lingerie in Paris, Curve in New York and we are also making our first appearance at Wonderland in London – fittingly the homeland of our ‘Home of Pleasure’.
I’m so excited about the plans we have for the year ahead, and far beyond that – may the pursuit of pleasure long continue!
Time out
Best spent drinking tequila with friends, at home reading a book with my dog, Charlie or in the sauna.
The one product you couldn’t live without?
It would be hard to choose between a black lace balconette bra and a pair of black patent stilettos!
Pet Hate?
Arrogance.
Misogyny.
Animal cruelty.
Absolutely no need for any of them.
Footnote: Founded in 2001, Coco de Mer creates and curates a unique collection of luxury lingerie and sexual wellness products – a considered curation designed to celebrate the beauty, joy and endless possibilities of female pleasure – core to Coco de Mer’s brand philosophy. Coco de Mer is proudly certified with the Butterfly Mark, a symbol of the Real Changemakers in luxury. Powered by Positive Luxury, The Butterfly Mark is only ever awarded to brands that meet higher and higher standards for people and nature. The label, based in Primrose Hill, London, proudly encapsulates the Home of Pleasure, creating a safe space to explore a world of delights. Available online at www.coco-de-mer.com and in its boutique at 24A Motcomb Street Knightsbridge, London, SW1 where educational Salons are held, and personal shopping is available.
