This Friday we chat with Xavier Martin who was appointed in September 2024 as Managing Director of the newly emerged Lejaby Company. Xavier has a long history of working in intimate apparel and has a new challenge in reviving the fortunes of this well-known French lingerie house that has suffered reversals in the last decade or so, falling into receivership in 2012 and again in 2024. He tells us about his past, his present and his future ambitions.
Life before Lingerie?
I have spent to date 22 years in the lingerie industry – starting with Huit in 2022, then Simone Pérèle for 12 years and most recently Aubade from 2020 to 2024. But before this I studied in Aston University in Birmingham and spent 8 years selling high-end French furniture in the UK. I have been up and down the country and have great memories of it. I have also been taught the Anglo-Saxon way of working which is still now part of my personal approach.
If you were not working in intimate apparel, what do you think you would have done instead?
After Aubade, last January, I worked for a French high end jewellery brand as Sales Director. This was unique and really inspiring. This industry is fascinating with such a technical know-how but also many codes and specificities. I would have loved to develop my skills there. But I met Salim Podiono and was seduced by his offer and the new Lejaby project. I had to say yes and move back to intimate apparel, after having just said fond goodbyes to all my colleagues only 6 months before. This makes them laugh!
So who is behind the new company – Lejaby Maison de Création?
The company belongs to Salim Podiono personally. Mr Podiono is from Indonesia but lives in Singapore. He is also the President of Mirae, a lingerie manufacturing group based in Indonesia. He is therefore fully aware of the specificities of the lingerie industry which is a great asset for Lejaby. He knows that we cannot develop products and regain our distribution overnight which helps us a lot in our organisation. We want to stick to the image of reliability we have had, producing and delivering high end quality products. My first priority was to ensure that we control and manage correct stocking levels and guarantee timely deliveries.
Most important to me is that the owner realises and knows first-hand the complexities of managing a lingerie brand and is investing in the long term health and success of Lejaby.
So have you a timeframe in mind for bringing the Lejaby brand back to the forefront of French lingerie houses?
Lejaby needs at least 18 months to be back to full strength. We are currently putting all our efforts in balancing permanent ranges stock, producing new seasonal ranges for Spring-Summer 25 and developing Autumn-Winter 25. Alongside this, we need to build up confidence again with our retail partners both in France and in export markets, with UK and Ireland being key to our plans. The Paris fair in January and Wonderland in London will be occasions to show our clients what we are at. But it is only by the end of 2025 that we would for sure have regained full speed. In lingerie it takes time to make things right, and if we try to rush this, then I would worry about the quality – I want to ensure that we deliver on our promises at all levels.
In your career, what has been your proudest moment to date?
In my career the most important achievements have always been made thanks to great teams. Alone you cannot do much. But when you manage to have people working together then it is exciting. I am particularly proud of having opened and managed offices worldwide, bringing different cultures and personalities together. Especially in Northern America, Asia or Middle East. I hope I can achieve the same in Lejaby now starting mainly with European regions.
Where do you think you will be in 10 years’ time?
Frankly I would be delighted to manage Lejaby for all that time and make the brand strong again. In Lyon I am back to my roots as I was born locally. It would be fantastic to make this local brand strongly desired again internationally. I am confident we can do so, but 10 years might be necessary to achieve it. So, I will stick with it.
And how do you relax?
When I am not focussed on the future of Lejaby I do enjoy wandering in the beautiful region where I now live. Biking or hiking in the Beaujolais, in the Rhône valley or in the Alps is such a pleasure for me. And so relaxing. I really invite all our partners to come and visit us when they are passing by. It would be great to welcome them to taste the highly renowned local food, among others.
Lejaby will be on show at Salon International de La Lingerie and Wonderland in January 2025 but you can find out more about their 2025 collections from Stephen Morrow on smorrow@maisonlejaby.com