With MBFWM AW23/24 just finished, it’s time to take a look back at the trends of the week. And although the event does not focus on showcasing lingerie and swimwear exclusively, it still managed to surprise on day one and two with an exciting array of all things underwear inspired.
And that of course includes Andres Sarda, whose packed out Avalanche Sardá Fall/Winter 23/24 show took the audience to an imagined mountain village, where a diverse and inclusive group of models represented the scorchy powerful female. Going from day to night, the looks started with lingerie garments detailed with embroidery, animal print motifs, golden tulle or Swarovski crystals. Next up were ski-inspired body suits made in red and white lace. Eco-friendly, faux-fur garments in vibrant colours were worn in contrast with the delicate lingerie. The après ski looks featured Sardá’s version of down jackets and tweed suits, followed by a set of outfits that would work in a modern day studio 54 with metallic dresses and clean cut Lycra® suits, worn with bras with French Leavers lace details. The show closed on a high, style with a white satin and Swarovski crystal suit that could easily be worn for a wedding.
Maria Lafuente delighted us with a showcase of corsets worn as outer wear, as part of her INEFABLE collection. An all-inclusive model line-up wore these quilted or plain cloth boned corsets black or grey, combined with delicate lace dresses. An international benchmark for sustainable fashion, María Lafuente’s collection innovates while protecting the environment, using PEFC certified sustainable fabrics.
Maya Hansen – well known for her work as a corset architect – featured corsets created from deconstructed sportswear and accessories, in her UPCYCLED collection. Based on the circular economy and upcycling as a response to climate change, the collection reinvents manufacturing leftovers and surplus stock to create unique, powerful, urban looks with a clear sportswear influence and the language of the corset as a sign of identity.
Talking of trends, it’s hard not to mention Agatha Ruiz de la Prada, whose euphoric collection opened the first day with a burst of colour. An homage to the label’s five perfumes, the collection in a celebration of coloured tights and sock combinations, paired with whimsical transparent organza, sequins, Lycra, velvet and faux-fur.
Transparent tops highlighting black lace bras and underwear at the Angel Schlesser show, where structured garments were built up through clean patterns, and broad structures. The collection evokes nature, using mixed textures and high quality fabrics such as cashmere, wool and silk organza.
Fun and frolics were had at Eduardo Navarette’s roller-skate disco runway show, where both girls and boys modelled swimwear featuring the label’s signature digital printing hallmark, with prints of the designers face, joined by pink flamingos and tropical fruit. Silks, cottons and raffias in bright Mediterranean blues, fuchsias, greens and fluorescent yellows are transformed into bikinis, swimsuits, kimonos, and XL capes, shorts, oversize cut shirts and original beachwear garments – including darling peekaboo umbrella hats that could just be the next big thing for rain and shine!
Trends & Reporting@mslupecastro
Photography @martinesq