International roving fashion reporter, Lupe Castro, reports from Madrid Fashion Week.
I attended MBFWM in Madrid this past week and some clear swimwear aesthetics are already shining through from the leading Spanish designers of the genre.
One that really stood out for me was the move towards more diverse and inclusive swimwear – which I LOVE! It was so refreshing to see Aurelia Gil use gender fluid, curvy and even pregnant models on the catwalk. Meanwhile, Dolores Cortes also had a curvy model wearing various pieces. And a pregnant model was also spotted on the catwalk for the Andres Sarda collection, which was opened by actress Najwa Nimri.
After NYFW, it seems transparent materials are coming in strong for swimwear. In fact, innovative materials are all the range for next season. Such as crochet and Lycra thread – which Aurelia Gil used in the fabulous brand’s latest swimwear collection ‘365’, which combined innovation and creativity to come up with an ideal swimwear material that can get wet but also looks flattering and unique. The material was developed in Aurelia’s own workshop and then a La Palma based artisan, Eloisa Pascual, crochets patterns using the thread. And it can even get wet like a swimsuit. The collection itself is a reflection of the designer’s own style – timeless, sustainable and feminine – and also reflects the current dichotomy between tradition and modernity with organic colours blending with more fluoride tones – a trend seen across the season’s looks for next year.
Dolores Cortes
Dolores Cortes
Dolores Cortes
Dolores Cortes
Dolores Cortes
Dolores Cortes also used crochet in the latest SS23 collection, inspired by the art world these Bauhaus looks reflect the work of Anne Albers. Known for an innovative approach to textiles and prints, Cortes has created an exquisite collection of pieces that blur the line between rationalist shapes, organic abstract motifs and craftsmanship. Inspired by travels around South America, the pieces display vibrant colours, juxtaposed with stand-out black and white combinations.
Aurelia Gil
Aurelia Gil
Aurelia Gil
Aurelia Gil
Aurelia Gil
But what about the other trends du jour? Andres Sarda was inspired by the world of cinema for his SS2023 collection. There’s the black and white pieces; inspired by Hitchcock, yet still elegant and
sophisticated, made in materials as disparate as terry towelling and silk organza. The collection also features pieces inspired by documentaries and focusing on art that play on contrasts of shapes and colour. Likewise, the musical film genre was an inspiration, with nods to films such as Cats and Moulin Rouge, showcased in theatrical versatility of materials such as lace, leavers, mesh tulle and satin. The collection reinterprets female characters from an imaginary world – such as fairies, princesses and witches, using satin, tulles and silk to create an unreal world.”
