Sustainable fibre brand Tencel™ marks its 30th anniversary this year and Underlines spoke with Judy Chen, Head of Global Business Development (Fashion Knits & Essentials) at Lenzing, manufacturer of the brand.
Since its inception this Austrian manufacturer has been leading the way in bringing to market fibre solutions which are innovative and environmentally responsible right through the sourcing and production cycle. Tencel™ branded fibres are created using responsibly sourced wood in a sustainable production process and are fully biodegradable after disposal, with a multiplicity of end uses from clothing and intimate apparel to homeware.
And what exactly is Tencel™?
In fact there are two main types of Tencel™ – lyocell and modal. Both are produced by environmentally responsible processes from sustainably sourced natural raw material (wood). Lyocell is made from eucalyptus wood pulp and can be blended with other textile fibres (e.g. polyester, cotton…) and has been part of Lenzing’s portfolio since 1992. Modal has been around longer and is appreciated for its softness in touch – perfect for next-to-skin clothing and intimate apparel.
Judy has been part of the Lenzing ‘family’ for over 20 years and is a passionate believer in the value that Tencel™ fibres bring to the clothing market. “As a company we have years of experience in creating sustainable fibres that are fully biodegradable – made from natural materials as part of a natural process which is efficient in its use of water and energy. Even the trees we select are from certified forests and at every step of our production we are committed to our ultimate goal of building a truly sustainable textile industry.”
Tencel™ is already established as one of the most environmentally friendly and sustainable fibres in the industry but going further the company launched its carbon-zero Tencel™ branded fibre with Refibra technology in 2020 – a pioneering, upcycling technology that produces new Tencel lyocell fibres that are made of 30% post-industrial waste. The ambition does not end there as Judy explains:
We can use not only post-industrial waste but also post-consumer waste which we convert to new fibres and by 2025 our percentage of recycled content will hit 50%. We aim to be carbon zero across lyocell and modal by 2050 and we are working steadily to achieve that target.”
Judy Chen
Feel good fibres since 1992
“Around 5 years ago we decided it was time to invest in raising consumer awareness and become a consumer-facing brand. It was time to become more proactive and since 2018 we have instituted collaborations between Tencel™ and more than 300 brand partners globally through varied consumer-centric campaigns. Of course we have to pay attention to global differences but our message is clear as seen in our ‘Feel good fibres since 1992’ campaign which kicks off this year.”
So how did the pandemic impact Lenzing’s business?
Much has been made of irresponsibility of the fashion industry in environmental terms but the pandemic really brought this to the fore. Judy comments: “Of course everyone was affected but from our point of view there was new interest in sustainable fibres which was beneficial for us. Likewise with so many people staying at and/or working from home there was a heightened demand for apparel that was comfortable, unrestricted and soft to the skin and people’s expectations were not just for all these attributes but also for clothing that is kinder to the planet. Tencel™ is perfectly placed to meet these demands.
“Consumption as a whole has not greatly increased but we have achieved growth as the pandemic not only accelerated a desire for knowledge about the content of clothing but also demand for ‘kinder’ fibres and fabrics. Demand from Asia has been particularly high and there is great potential there. I would say that COVID-19 speeded everything up and generated a whole new wave of consumer awareness and demand.
Lenzing expands its operations in Thailand
March 2022 marked the opening of the new plant which is the largest lyocell plant in the world with a capacity of 100,000 tons a year. Despite the pandemic, the factory was finished on schedule and will be a key element in Lenzing’s strategy to become carbon-neutral by 2050. The established infrastructure means that the site 150km north east of Bangkok can be supplied with sustainable biogenic energy (and significantly contribute to climate protection).
Alongside this Lenzing has nearly completed a pulp mill in Brazil which will again breaks records with a capacity of 500,000 tons a year, the largest of its kind in the world. The two sites are part of a massive investment programme by Lenzing to the tune of over 1.5billion Euro.
Sustainable lace with Tencel
So what next for Tencel™ in the sector of intimate clothing?
Judy comments: “The sector or scope of intimates has broadened dramatically over recent years and we address ourselves to anything that is actually worn next to the skin. Skin is our largest organ and you should treat it with respect. The right materials for your skin should be a priority. Garments made from Tencel™ lyocell or modal are part of a natural process, responsibly produced and kind to your skin as well as the environment. From tree to fibre and fibre to fashion.”
But how can you raise brand and consumer awareness?
“We have spent years on developing products for all sorts of applications including intimates but we knew we needed to do much more to convey the message which is really a simple one actually. Trees to garments so our campaigns for 2022 use the strapline ‘Tencel Feels so Right – feel good fibres since 1992’.
“We are aware that people at all levels of the clothing industry want to be better informed and we have staff training for brands and retail education programmes.”
In terms of service Lenzing was once again ahead of the game as it launched the Tencel™ eShop in 2021, the first ever e-commerce channel created by a sustainable fibre producer employing the products of its branded partners and showcasing the commitment to encourage consumers to make informed purchases.
So what next in development terms?
“We already have the right product for homewear and intimates and are working with some great brands such as Hanro, Impetus, Eberjey, Princesse Tam Tam and Calida and we are excited with the new development of a beautiful lace with Tencel™ developed with Turkish companies as seen in CASAGiN.
“It is certainly an ambition that we develop more of the components of bras that can be biodegradable, comfortable, sustainable and crucially attractive.
As a company we have become more nimble if you like insomuch as brands and suppliers everywhere are trying to reduce inventory and waste. In our industry everyone wants quicker response to fluctuating market demand. The growth of e-commerce was speeded up during the pandemic but of course there is the ever present problem of returned goods.”
Lenzing as a company is certainly investing in its future – 30 years ago as an ingredient fibre brand working B2B with a strong message to emerging as a consumer-facing brand with a promise and guarantee as a leader in sustainable fibres. High quality fibres and strict environmental practices mean that Tencel™ is very much a part of the movement for considered purchases – buying better and buying less. You have a feeling that its time has come!
