This week Underlines speaks to Maxine Wells of Intimate Apparel Samples: a unique design & development service for small to medium intimate apparel and swimwear businesses, including start-ups. With a passion for independent designers and small niche labels, Maxine believes small businesses are there to help each other and has long been a supporter of the ‘Made in Britain’ flag. Pamela Scott caught up with her to find out how the last year has been and how she sees a bright future ahead for both lingerie and British manufacturing.
Maxine Wells comes with an impressive CV and hands-on experience of the business of lingerie. She graduated from De Montfort University with a BA (Hons) Degree in Fashion and Contour and thereafter established her own successful lingerie label, Maxine’s of London.
However this was never enough as simultaneously Maxine was developing the Intimate Apparel Samples business for other lingerie or swimwear brands with her team of pattern cutters and seamstresses. So much demand meant that she decided to close the order books on her own line and commit completely to working with other designers.
“It was and is still my objective to make small to medium businesses in the UK as strong as they can be. I align closely to the ‘Made in Britain’ organisation as it mirrors my own objectives and ideals. Working with and mentoring designers who are often in trepidation at the complexity of getting their designs to finished garments and all the detail that this requires. We are not bound by large factory minimums or MOQs so production runs can start as low as 10 units per style (in mixed sizes). It does mean that most of my clients are independent labels at the high-end/luxury price point.”
Of course it is much more than mentoring as I.A. Samples offers the full gamut of services – initial consultation and design concepts into a technically viable design package with grading, fabric selections, fit assessments and then CMT production which is suited to low minimums. “Producing lingerie is not an easy process; it requires a high skill set and indeed is quite a long process from concept to full product realisation. And for smaller brands and designers, this can be quite intimidating. I see it as part of my role to ease new brands into manufacture in a way that is comfortable and convenient. Many designers are daunted by the thought of approaching overseas producers and of course, there are lots of benefits to manufacturing in the UK, not least accessibility. And if it is a technical innovation or invention there is a danger of misinterpretation or misunderstanding by sending it overseas to be fulfilled.”
So what challenges did 2020 present to Maxine and her team?
“Well of course it became quieter throughout the year and I had to juggle on & off furlough for the seamstresses. However it gave me time to work on social media more (something I never seemed to have time for!), assessing the way we work and becoming more efficient by streamlining and working remotely too. I opened a second studio in February 2020 – not ideal you might say – and although not utilised fully it was essential for social distancing requirements when we did get back to work.”
And how is 2021 shaping up?
“Actually it is really positive – all our production time is booked up till the summer and I am in the process of trying to negotiate a new site in Wembley which will give me more production capacity. I am thrilled to say that a lot of work has come our way since the start of the year and I have actually hired 2 new staff and all being well, a new production manager.
To put in perspective orders are generally larger than 2020 with more pieces being added into collections. Likewise there is a discernible trend towards more soft triangle pieces and more casual garments (a result I guess of 2020) rather than total glamour. The major movement I have noticed is towards garments that are focussed around body positivity and inclusivity – this is still gathering momentum.”
It is so important that people feel valued in what they do or what they are trying to achieve.
With her background at De Montfort University Maxine likes to support fellow alumni if she can. “I really enjoy welcoming new faces into the business, at whatever level that is. I know where they are coming from and I can help with apprenticeships too. It is so important that people feel valued in what they do or what they are trying to achieve. These new graduates have a lot of heart and are value-led. They are sustainably conscious and want to work with ethical supply chains where all production is transparent. They will create the brands of the future where these values are built in (and not bolted on).”
Maxine is keen to expand this year to sustain the demand and growth for her company’s services. “Of course I need to minimise risk but I need to be in a good position for the upturn in development and manufacturing that is coming. I will try and plan for every eventuality but I am planning for expansion as we do not want to limit ourselves.”
